The MountainWorld™ Blog

Magnitude 6.9 Earthquake Rocks Nepal...When is the next one?

A massive, magnitude 6.9 earthquake rocked the far eastern region of Nepal yesterday, along its border with the Indian state of Sikkim.

Reports from this remote region are scarce, and the death toll stands currently at "only" 69, but that number will most likely grow as more information percolates in from villages and outlying areas. Even Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal and 270 kilometers from the quake's epicenter, was hit hard, with many buildings collapsing, including a brick wall at the British Embassy that fell and killed a man and his daughter on a motorcycle.

 

Reading this of course makes my heart go out to all my friends halfway around the world, living in Nepal, Sikkim, India, and Tibet.

And, it makes me worry about what is to come, and think back to the frightening article by geologist and Himalayan earthquake expert Roger Bilham. It appeared in Himal Magazine back in 1994, when I was living and studying in Nepal, and has never been far from my mind. Read The Next Great Earthquake here.

Nepal, I'm thinking of you, and keeping my fingers crossed.

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

In Memoriam: Walter Bonatti, 1930-2011

There are a few names that are synonymous with historic, legendary alpinism: Messner, Kukuczka, Buhl, etc. And, sadly, one of the early legends, Walter Bonatti, passed away at age 81 yesterday in Rome, Italy.

His climbing resume includes some of the great ascents and peaks of the world:

• The north face of the Grandes Jorasses (1949)
• The east face of Grand Capucin (1951)
• The north faces of Tre Cime di Lavaredo in winter (1953)
• The southwest pillar of the Aiguille du Dru (The Bonatti pillar) (1955)
• Grand Pilier d'Angle (with Tito Gobbi) (1957)
• Gasherbrum IV (1958)
• The Red Pillar of Brouillard (1959)
• Rondoy North - Patagonia (1961)
• The north face of the Grandes Jorasses in winter (1963)
• The north face of the Matterhorn: solo and in winter (1965)

Bonatti was also on the famous first ascent of K2 in 1954, which resulted in a decades-long feud with fellow teammates (and first ascensionists) Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni over oxygen supposedly used by Bonatti, thus hindering their eventual summit bid.

I've long admired Bonatti for many reasons, not least of which is his unwavering belief in mountaineering not as a sport, or a contest, but rather a life and a philosophy. Stewart Green shared this Bonatti quote on his website:

For me, the value of a climb is the sum of three inseparable elements, all equally important: aesthetics, history, and ethics. Together they form the whole basis of my concept of alpinism. Some people see no more in climbing mountains than an escape from the harsh realities of modern times. This is not only uninformed but unfair. I don’t deny that there can be an element of escapism in mountaineering, but this should never overshadow its real essence, which is not escape but victory over your own human frailty.

There is far more of Bonatti's amazing life and climbing career to read about, so please check out some of these articles:

• Rocky Life of a Mountain Man, Guardian-UK
• Walter Bonatti info by Stewart Green
• Walter Bonatti on SummitPost
• Lonely at the Top book review in the New York Times
• Walter Bonatti Makes Final Ascent in La Gazzetta dello Sport

You'll be missed, Walter, but your spirit will live on.

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Kukuczka

Climb For Sudan: Determination for a Great Cause

As many of you know, I was honored a few months back when Joe Rogers and Nick Spivey asked me to be the Honorary Chair for their bold, philanthropic initiative Climb For Sudan. Initially, I had high hopes that time would allow me to climb with them on some of the great 14-ers in Colorado; unfortunately, I was kept busy by Challenge21 initiatives and my Rwenzori expedition, and was not able to climb with Nick and Joe.

But, they have done an extraordinary job - as expected - climbing strong for months as they ticked off summit after summit after summit throughout the state. The goal for Climb For Sudan was a bold one: Climb all 58 Colorado fourteeners (peaks above 14,000 feet) in 70 days and raise $100,000 for Project Education Sudan a dedicated 501(c)3 that build schools - and fosters hope - in South Sudan.

Sadly, after climbing the 54th peak on their list - Snowmass Mountain - Joe took a 40 foot fall. His injuries were fortunately not life-threatening, but still serious enough to take him off the roster for the final 4 peaks. But, Nick will continue on, and plans to climb the remaining peaks - Longs, Holy Cross, and Grays & Torreys - by Friday, September 9th.

And, that will be the day of a big celebration for Nick, Joe, Climb For Sudan and Project Education Sudan: the "Top of the Peak" dinner in downtown Denver. It will be a great night featuring former Broncos Celebrity Bartenders, Salida Circus Performers, “Buy a Block, Build a School” Live Auction, Silent Auction including 1st level Broncos tickets, home plate Rockies tickets, spa packages, mountain condos and more, Lost Boys Dance Performance, Sponsor Recognition Ceremony.

But, most importantly, it will be a celebration of all that Joe and Nick accomplished over 70 days in tribute to the challenges and successes of the people of South Sudan.

So, if you're interested, please consider attending the Top of the Peak celebration dinner on September 9th. It promises to be a great event, and in support of an even greater cause. Here's the details:

Hosted by:
Red Peak Properties
1600 Glenarm Place Apartments
Outdoor Amenity Patio
Denver, CO 80202
Friday, September 9, 2011
6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

$50.00 per person
$25.00 student/young professional
$75.00 at the door

Spirits and Hors d’oeuvres

RSVP via Blacktie Colorado here

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Tom Waits in the Hall of Fame

This bit has nothing at all to do with mountains, aside from the fact that Tom Waits' gravelly voice rasps through my earbuds on every expedition I go on, his defined but unrefined style one that has always grabbed and inspired me. 

So, mountains aside, I was excited this morning when my wife called to tell me Tom Waits was on NPR as part of their series on new inductees to the Rock 'n Roll Hall of Fame; Waits' piece is aptly titled Tom Waits: Skid Row's Boozy Balladeer.

Those of you who tune into The MountainWorld Blog a lot might remember my post from back in 2008 on The Wit & Wisdom of Tom Waits. It featured snippets of a great interview Waits did with himself on his blog - definitely a fun read. And, if you enjoy Tom's music, personality, etc., you might want to check out some more:

• Waits performing one of my favorites, Ol' '55
• Waits on Letterman
• Glitter And Doom: Tom Waits In Concert - A Stunning Performance, Recorded At Atlanta's Fox Theater, from NPR

And, I guess there is a bit of a mountain tie-in. Deep in the South Platte of Colorado lies an amazing dome of rock called Big Rock Candy Mountain. While perhaps not related in name, Waits did record a version of the song that was used in the 1987 film Ironweed. Hmmm, reaching a bit there...

Anyway, enjoy Tom Waits...and congrats to him on a well-earned place in music history!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Martina Navratilova Gets HAPE & A Rescue on Kilimanjaro

You hear it all the time: Kilimanjaro is just a hike...anyone can do it. Well, yes, it is just a hike from a technical perspective by the standard routes, but, its altitude - almost 6,000 meters - catches many people unaware - even great athletes.

As Jason Hendricks over at Extreme Adventure News brought to my attention, tennis great Martina Navratilova was just brought down off the mountain, suffering from HAPE, or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. All in all, she's fine, and is expected to make a full recovery. However, it could easily have been worse; there were no doubt many rescuers and helpers involved in getting her safely back down the mountain and to Nairobi Hospital.

Navratilova's mishap on the "easy" slopes of Kilimanjaro should serve as a warning to people: altitude can strike anyone, even great athletes on mellow terrain. So, be prepared, climb slowly and allow yourself to acclimate. Know how to read your body, and respond accordingly to what it's telling you. And, as Martina did, don't be afraid to turn around and come back another day...a summit isn't worth dying for.

If you want to learn a bit more about Acute Mountain Sickness, and it's more serious cousins, High Altitude Pulmonary Edema and High Altitude Cerebral Edema - and what to do about them - check out my articles on the subject below:

• The Basics of Altitude: A Primer on AMS, HACE, & HAPE, Part I
• The Basics of Altitude: A Primer on AMS, HACE, & HAPE, Part II
• The Basics of Altitude: A Primer on AMS, HACE, & HAPE, Part III

Enjoy, and be safe out there!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

The Dirty Himalaya

You don't have to be a rocket scientist to know that the high mountains of the world - replete with massive glaciers and regular snowfall - are an essential component of the world water supply. And, the Himalaya, those highest mountains of all, provide a huge source of fresh water for some one billion people living in their shadow. 

Despite the growing numbers of people climbing in the high mountains these days, looking up at the glimmering-white snows of these peaks one would be hard pressed to imagine the mountains - and their waters - as polluted in any serious way. 

But, according to a new paper by Bill Yeo and S. Langley-Turnbaugh of the Department of Environmental Science, University of Southern Maine, the pristine-white of the high mountains is quite deceptive. 

Their recent study, which appears in the current issue of Soil Survey Horizons, took soil and snow samples from Everest and other peaks worldwide. Lab tests revealed abnormally high levels of arsenic and cadmium, among other compounds. 

According to their paper, nearly 20% of the earth’s surface is comprised of mountains that play a role in the storage and distribution of fresh water, and one-tenth of the world’s population relies on that mountain snowpack as their sole source of fresh water.

Much of the study was technical and over my head, but the gist of it was digestible, and a bit unnerving. Read the full account - Trace Element Deposition on Mount Everest - here. And, thanks to The Hindu for their informing me about this in the first place. 

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Age 10 on Everest...And So it Begins. What do you think?

Last spring, the world press was aflutter with news of 13 year old Jordan Romero's successful summit of Everest via the Northeast Ridge. And well they should have been: Romero's accomplishment was quite impressive, showing dedication, maturity, and humility not often seen in a young teenager. 

My fear after Jordan's success has always been that rather than simply inspiring kids (and adults) to turn off the X-Box, get off the couch, and get outside, it would also spark a new - and potential disastrous - race to get the youngest kid to the Top of the World. 

And, sure enough, it's happening now, with Pemba Dorje Sherpa - a highly accomplished climber from Nepal - hoping his son, Tseten Sherpa, will stand on top next year at age 10. Pemba is currently seeking a variance on Nepal's prohibition of anyone under 16 climbing Everest, although tourism minister Baburam Bhandari has said the government will not grant a permit to Pemba and Tseten. 

Like Romero before him, I don't doubt that Tseten is a strong, skilled, capable young boy, and climbing Everest might indeed be within his ability. And, with justifiable national pride, his father noted: "'I think all the Everest records should be held by Nepalese people." While that may be true, I can't help but wonder what young Tseten thinks.

Does he really want to climb Everest, or is the concept of national and international fame - and possible fortune - buoying his enthusiasm?

Can a 10 year old - or a 13 year old for that matter - truly be ready for all the challenges one faces above 8000 meters? 

We see bad decisions play out on Everest year after year, with people getting hurt or dying, often as a result of pushing beyond their limits in pursuit of some epiphany they see residing in the summit snows. Is it right to put young people in a position where even adults have trouble making sound decisions? 

And, ultimately, do all these records really matter? What I admire about Jordan Romero is not that he stood on the summit of Everest, but rather the journey of challenge and self-discovery that took him there. 

What are your thoughts? Should kids be climbing Everest? 

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Outside in Aspen - a participatory adventure weekend

This coming weekend, June 11-13, 2010, I'll be joining a handful of other professional athletes for a few days of fun and exercise in beautiful Aspen, Colorado, for the Outside in Aspen event. (It's been a great spring here in Colorado, with lots of moisture, making for some stunning scenery - snow capped peaks dropping from blue skies into lush, green valleys. Not bad!)

At the event, I'll be joined by fellow First Ascent athletes Melissa Arnot - just back from her third summit of Everest - and kayaker Jesse Coombs. Additionally, my classmates from Holderness School, extreme skier Chris Davenport and cyclist Tyler Hamilton, will be there. We'll all participate in an athlete symposium / panel discussion as well as participate in various adventure events from rock climbing to trail running, cycling to kayaking. 

It should be a great weekend, with lots of extracurricular events going on as well in the always-fun town of Aspen. 

Check out the full agenda, and sign up for events at the Outside in Aspen website today! See you this weekend!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Palindromic Inspiration

Many of you have probably already seen this...In fact, by last count on YouTube, nearly 9.2 million people have enjoyed it thus far!

But, it was new to me, arriving in my inbox this morning from a friend.

Take a moment to watch the whole video; it's only 1:44 long, so time is not an issue. The video, created by a 20 year old for the AARP U@50 contest, is poignant and inspiring.

Enjoy!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Thursday Thought: Haiti, Giving, and Carpe Diem

As I was ice climbing today, I couldn't help but think about the incomprehensible suffering of millions in Haiti, the tragedy of their plight, and how trivial my everyday struggles are in comparison.

So, today's Thursday Thought will be simple, short, yet hopefully profound in some way.

First, seize the day. Carpe diem. Our lives are short, and our time precious. We shouldn't need horrors like earthquakes, hurricanes, wars, death and destruction to remind of this reality, but often we do.

Remember what Sogyal Rinpoche said:

Living with the immediacy of death helps us sort out our priorities in life. 

And, of course, Marcus Aurelius in Meditations:

Live as on a mountain.

In other words, again, seize the day. Let the trivialities of life be just that...trivial. Focus on family, on passion, on living every day with purpose and meaning. For, like it or not, tomorrow you, me, any of us might be gone.

And, finally, if you have the ability, give. Give to Haiti, whether financially, physically, or simply mentally by sending positive thoughts however you do it. But, please, give, give as much as you can, and remember these encouraging thoughts:

The love of one's country is a natural thing. But why should love stop at the border?
- Pablo Casals

Help your neighbor's boat across, and lo! your own has reached the shore.
- Hindu proverb

Do all the good you can, by all the means you can, in all the ways you can, in all the places you can, to all the people you can, as long as ever you can.
- John Wesley 

Even in the absence of mutual gains, even without indirect advantages to offset tangible costs, some decisions require a transcending of self-interest, whether personal or organizational.
- Roy Vagelos

The whole idea of compassion is based on a keen awareness of the interdependence of all these living beings, which are all part of one another, and all involved in one another.
- Thomas Merton

Mitakuye oyasin...
- Lakota Sioux prayer meaning "We are all related, we are all one."

Namaste...The spirit in my salutes the spirit which dwells within each and every one of you.

- Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.