The MountainWorld™ Blog

Humility: The Name of the Game

 Back in February, I wrote a Thursday Thought about ego...and the need to not have one in life. In it I shared some thoughts from one of my climbing heroes (and friends), Tom Hornbein.  

As many of you know, I spent this weekend with an incredible group of athletes at the Outside in Aspen event in Aspen, Colorado. Aside from the depth and diversity of accomplishments in the group, what I found most impressive was the level of humility and the marked absence of ego amongst the crew. 

On Sunday, we all shared a panel discussion: kayaker Jesse Coombs, cyclist Tyler Hamilton, climber Melissa Arnot, skier Chris Davenport, and myself. (Also present, but not on the panel, was kayaker Chris Korbulic.) Not once did anyone proclaim "I'm the best" or show any degree of arrogance about their successes, and failures, in life. Rather, the common theme was that each person followed their passion in life, and that, combined with a lot of hard work and tenacity, led to a high level of success...not to mention a lot of fun along the way. 

Because of that humility, I really enjoyed sharing the panel discussion, and the weekend, with this group, and I think the audience and visitors to Outside in Aspen did, too. 

Especially impressive during the panel was Jesse Coombs comments on how to approach all we do in life. He kept stressing the need to "do the right things for the right reasons." Advice we all could and should apply to our lives, personal and professional. 

And, Jesse is no run-of-the-mill kayaker; he's one of the most accomplished in the world, with a list of first-descents that to this hydro-challenged person reads like my worst nightmare. But, you won't get that out of him easily; he'll downplay his accomplishments while simultaneously noting yours and complimenting you. Solid characteristics from a solid guy. 

So, here's a little video that shows some of the huge accomplishments of Jesse Coombs and his team of expedition kayakers. Amazing stuff...enjoy Hotel Charley V:

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Outside in Aspen - a participatory adventure weekend

This coming weekend, June 11-13, 2010, I'll be joining a handful of other professional athletes for a few days of fun and exercise in beautiful Aspen, Colorado, for the Outside in Aspen event. (It's been a great spring here in Colorado, with lots of moisture, making for some stunning scenery - snow capped peaks dropping from blue skies into lush, green valleys. Not bad!)

At the event, I'll be joined by fellow First Ascent athletes Melissa Arnot - just back from her third summit of Everest - and kayaker Jesse Coombs. Additionally, my classmates from Holderness School, extreme skier Chris Davenport and cyclist Tyler Hamilton, will be there. We'll all participate in an athlete symposium / panel discussion as well as participate in various adventure events from rock climbing to trail running, cycling to kayaking. 

It should be a great weekend, with lots of extracurricular events going on as well in the always-fun town of Aspen. 

Check out the full agenda, and sign up for events at the Outside in Aspen website today! See you this weekend!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Climbing Cotopaxi and other adventures in Ecuador

 
Approaching the summit of Cotopaxi. Photo by Jake Norton.

As many of you know, I was down in Ecuador recently climbing Cotopaxi and photographing for Eddie Bauer & First Ascent. 

It was a great trip with Melissa Arnot, Jeff Dossett, and cameraman Bob Poole. And, we made the summit of Cotopaxi, a peak I had not topped out on before. 

Quite a stunning climb, and we were fortunate enough to see many other places in Ecuador as well. 

The dispatches - and many of my images - are up on the First Ascent blog now. Swing on over and check them out!!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Charlie Houston, Yvon Chouinard, Bob Bates, Bob Craig, Ed Viesturs, and more!

Save the date for a night of mountaineering lore on April 10, 2010, as we celebrate  the accomplishments of four great figures in American mountaineering: Charlie Houston, Bob Bates, Bob Craig, and Yvon Chouinard. 

On April 10th, the American Mountaineering Museum will celebrate the first annual mountaineering gala and induction into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence. The award goes to these four individuals to recognize their commitment and contributions to the sport of mountaineering as well as their accomplishments while not wearing crampons and a rope. 

The event will feature Yvon Chouinard and Bob Craig in the flesh; family and friends of Bates and Houston - who sadly passed on recently - will be in attendance to accept awards on their behalf. Additionally, the evening will feature a keynote presentation by Ed Viesturs, a climber whose accomplishments speak for themselves.

So, mark your calendars and come on down to the American Mountaineering Museum on April 10, 2010, for an event not to be missed! Rub elbows with some greats of American mountaineering past, present, and future, celebrate the lives and accomplishments of those who have directed our passions, and have a great time!

Tickets for the event are on sale now via the American Mountaineering Museum website; click here to buy yours today!

Learn more about the award, the evening, and our sponsors on the Museum website.

Sponsored by First Ascent.

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Thursday Thought: Gaston Rébuffat On Guiding

Q: What's the difference between a large pizza and a mountain guide?

A: A large pizza can feed a family of four...

Mountain guide jokes...they've been around as long as, well, as long as mountain guides, I guess. (Check out a collection of them here...but know that some are a bit on the lewd side...but all are pretty darn funny, I must admit, and may even be a bit true!)

Along with the jokes, we mountain guides have often been the subject of some degree of scorn from fellow climbers. Some climbers accuse guides of not being "real" climbers. (Not sure how "real" is defined.) Others despise us for bringing novices into the mountains. (Weren't we all novices once upon a time?)

I chose to become a mountain guide early in my climbing career. In fact, I remember exactly when it was: February, 1986, climbing Standard Route on Frankenstein Cliff in New Hampshire with our guide, Nick Yardley. Nick was - and still is - the consummate guide: skilled, strong, compassionate, empathetic, and passionate about his chosen field. He taught me the fundamentals of climbing - not just where to put my foot or swing my axe, but how to climb, how to respect the mountains, the mountain environment, and how to get into - and out of - the mountains safely, efficiently, and with at least some degree of fun.

As my climbing progressed, other great guides would inspire me as well: Phil Ershler in 1986, Bernard Prudhomme in 1987, Dave Hahn in 1988, Dave Colke in 1989, and more. All of them were great climbers, but also, like Nick, great teachers. And, most importantly, they loved to share the mountains and the mountain spirit with others. They had a deep desire to see others realize the seemingly impossible, to gain the perspective many of us find in the high, remote realms, and to learn to apply that perspective on our daily lives on terra firma.

In that way guides are, I guess, no different than teachers. The medium of course is different: mountains are our books, ropes and carabiners our pencils and calculators (or iPads). Like teachers, we guides have chosen deliberately to devote ourselves not as much to the pursuit of our personal climbing goals and dreams, but rather to the development of new climbers and in assisting them in pursuing their dreams, their craft, their passion.

So, today's Thursday Thought comes from one of the best guides ever - and, I should note, one of the best climbers ever - the late, great Gaston Rébuffat:

We were two men in a land of stone and we walked toward the same star.  I was happy to be on the drus, but here as elsewhere, my happiness was to lead a companion.  What would a guide be without someone to lead? Good weather, bad weather, easy, difficult, I need to sing the same tune as he.  That was the gift of our mountains.  Climbing to the summit, one man does his job, another is on vacation and the luxury of their efforts is friendship.

For those who are interested, here's a great video of Gaston climbing in the Alps from the documentary Between Heaven and Earth:

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Be First...Get Sponsored

You've heard about the great gear by First Ascent from me recently...Now, Eddie Bauer wants to help you get out and use it.

Many people might have forgotten it, but Eddie Bauer has its roots in pioneering first ascents around the world. Some of those include:

•The First Ascent of Gasherbrum I in Pakistan (1958)
•The First Ascent of Masherbrum in Pakistan (1960)
•The First American Ascent of Everest (1963)
•The First Ascent of Everest's West Ridge (1963)
•The First Ascent of Mount Kennedy in Canada (1965)
•The First Ascent of Vinson Massif in Antarctica (1966)
•The First American Ascent of Dhaulagiri in Nepal (1973)
•The First American Ascent of Peak Lenin in the Russian Pamirs (1974)
•The First Ascent of the North Ridge of Nanda Devi in India (1976)
•The First Ascent of Great Trango Tower in Pakistan (1977)
•The First American Ascent of Makalu in Nepal (1980)
•The First Ascent of Everest's East (Kangshung) Face (1983)

And, now, they're helping others "be first" by offering partial and full sponsorship of expeditions. So far, they've sponsored the Artic Surf Expedition, and are gearing up for the 9,000 Meter Challenge. And, Bauer is now accepting proposals for new expeditions. As they say:

If you've got an untamable spirit of adventure, BE FIRST is for you. The program is an opportunity to be partially or fully sponsored when you go for the summit or otherwise test your limits. We know the value of adventure. We’ve been there, many times. So if you’ve got a passion for pushing the envelope, send us your proposal. We can help make it happen.

Got a plan for something new? Dream big. Set your sights high. And submit a proposal...you never know where it may lead!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

First Ascent launches in 183 stores!!

Ed Viesturs on Everest, May, 2009. Photo by Jake Norton.

As most of you know, I've been working closely with Eddie Bauer and the First Ascent team for about a year now, helping with product development, marketing, and serving as the expedition photographer for our expeditions to Cotopaxi in Ecuador, Aconcagua in Argentina, and to Mount Everest last spring.

Well, the exciting time has come...While the First Ascent product has been online and in a few select stores for some time now, it will officially launch nationwide in 183 Eddie Bauer stores on October 12, 2009! (Read the official press release here.)

Is the gear any good? Well, I think so...I helped design and test it, using it in my backyard here in Colorado and up to the tippy-top of Everest this spring. In my opinion, it is the best gear out there, period.

But, sure, I'm a bit biased. So, check out what some others have said:

• Steve Casimiro puts the Hangfire Hoodie in his "Top Performers" list in National Geographic Adventure.
• Backpacker Magazine gave the Big Tahoma packa thumbs up in their October issue, saying: "This versatile pack is supportive and comfortable enough for a week-long trek, but simple and light enough for tackling big alpine peaks…The (removable) hipbelt never interfered with high-stepping, and two aluminum stays transfer loads up to 40 pounds directly to the hips. And the double ripstop nylon used in the packbag is not only superdurable, it’s highly waterproof.”
• Backpacker also loved the Downlight Sweater, saying: "This ultra-ultralight insulator nails the essentials: high draftproof collar, grapefruit-size packability, roomy zipped pockets, and light rain resistance–without layering on doodads that add weight or bulk." And, their Associate Editor, Shannon Davis, loved the warm and functional Peak XV down jacket for her climb of Rainier.
• And, Outside Magazine's "Gear Girl", Stephanie Pearson, recommends the First Ascent BC-100 for climbs in wet weather, like Kilimanjaro, where you need to stay dry but not carry too much weight. Read her recommendation here.

OK...you're getting the picture. The First Ascent line was built by guides, tested in some of the harshest conditions in the world, and reviewed by some pretty tough critics. And, it came out on top in all situations.

So, on October 12th, waltz into your local Eddie Bauer store and check out the new gear. It's great stuff, and comes with the legendary Eddie Bauer lifetime guarantee...so you just can't go wrong!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Thursday Thought...on Friday morning...

Sitting here in the Vancouver Airport waiting to fly home after 5 days in Whistler for a conference with Eddie Bauer and the First  Ascent team. It's been a great time - lots of work, and lots of fun - capped off with a shoot yesterday on the Rainbow Glacier. Beautiful. 

During the 5 days, I thought a lot about the huge push Eddie Bauer is making at this time, in this economy, in launching a new brand. And, in having the courage to do so, and the skill to do it so well. So, today's Thursday Thought deals with risk - and success and failure - and comes from the wisdom of Teddy Roosevelt:

It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out where the strong man stumbled or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred with dust and sweat and blood. At best, he knows the triumph of high achievement; if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who knew neither victory nor defeat.

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Jake Norton on the Colbert Report...well, kind of...

OK, it wasn't me...but it was a photo of mine from the summit of Everest.

On May 29, 2009, I reached the top with cameraman John Griber and assistant cameraman Kaji Sherpa at 7:45 AM. We were shooting for First Ascent (the new line by Eddie Bauer), and covering Peter Whittaker and Ed Viesturs as they climbed that day.

When Ed arrived later on, we went through the various banners he had with him for photos, including on strange one with a kooky looking face on it...that of Stephen Colbert of the Colbert Report. Seems Ed had made a promise to Stephen that last time he was on the show that he would bring Stephen's flag with him to the summit the next time he climbed.

So, there in the rarified air of 29,035 feet, in gusty winds, we took the shot...and, on July 2, 2009, Ed was back on the Colbert Report with Stephen showing off the photo.

You can watch the video below, or go straight to the Colbert Report and watch it there.

- Jake Norton is a climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

The Hardest Part of an Everest Expedition

NOTE: This is a blog entry I wrote during this spring's First Ascent "Return to Everest" expedition. It never ran on the blog though, so I thought I'd post it here as it speaks from the heart - or at least from my heart - as to the most challenging aspect of big Himalayan expeditions.

There were, however, some of my writings published on the First Ascent blog. If you're interested, they are:

• I'm Scared of Mount Everest - May 13, 2009
• Tribute to the Giants - May 1, 1999
• Behind The Scenes: Keeping Up With The Climbers - April 30, 2009
• Sherpa And The Culture Of Nepal - April 17, 2009

________________________________________________________________________________________

The Hardest Part

There's nothing easy about climbing mountains. They're big, cold, and dangerous. You get sick, you get tired, your head hurts and your muscles ache and your lungs burn. And, on Everest, all of that is magnified in the rarefied air most often occupied by jets.

But, to me, these are not the hardest parts of climbing big mountains:

• Everest is big...sure. That's kind of the point, I guess. If it weren't, well, there probably wouldn't be a city of some 800 people at it's base every spring.
• Everest is cold. It sure is. But, we've got the best gear in the industry, designed by those of us who live and breathe the cold for our livelihoods. That, we can endure.
• Everest is dangerous. Indeed, it is. But, so is life. If we avoid danger at all times in life, we run the risk, as George Mallory once wrote, of drying up like a pea in its shell. Or, to quote Helen Keller: Life is either a daring adventure, nothing at all. In the mountains, we accept the inherent risk, do our best to minimize it, and continue onward.
• On Everest, you get sick, you get tired, your head hurts and your muscles ache and your lungs burn. All true.. But, I get sick at home, too. I get tired when I ride my bike through the Rockies, and I get headaches and muscle aches and my lungs burn whenever I push my body. All these things are real, but transitory. They're an uncomfortably, but inherent, part of the enterprise, and nothing I personally can't get used to in moderation.

So, if altitude, cold, danger, and bodily abuse is not the hard part, then what is? For me, it's simple: when I roll over in my tent and look at the western wall, I see gazing back at me the sweet, innocent eyes of my daughter, Lila, 21 months old. Next to her picture is one of my wife, Wende, supportive to the end of my adventures and life and career.

Jake Norton at The South Col, 26,000 feet.

Gazing into their eyes, my heart aches. I yearn to be home, listening to my daughter practicing her first few words, helping her as she explores our world, sitting on the front porch with my family listening to the birds chirp about the onset of spring in Colorado. Looking at their pictures, the reality of where I am and how long I am gone comes rushing to me like a freight train, the longing to be home again approaching overwhelm.

The internal monologue then begins on cue. Why do you do this? Why didn't you choose a “real” job, one with “real” hours in a “real” location? You should've stayed in real estate in Colorado Springs...enough of this expedition stuff. Enough. Go home.

This, indeed, is the hardest part. But, also the easiest. Easy, because, in my heart of hearts, I know the mountains are as much a part of me – of my life, my personality, my very being – as anything, and to ignore that fundamental element of myself would be to ignore the need to breathe or eat or sleep. No, the mountains are where I thrive, they are the fuel for my soul, and the environment which humbles, grounds, and continually inspires me.

So, tomorrow, as I once again ascend through the Khumbu Icefall, I'll  have my pictures of Wende and Lila in my breast pocket, close to my heart. I'll feel them through the miles, and think about them every step. I'll minimize the risk, climb safe and steady, be both inspired and humbled each moment along the way. I will, as my wife and I always urge each other, live each day as if it were my last, and take inspiration from that perspective.  And, I'll know that, even though I miss Wende and Lila terribly and they are missing me, we all understand.

- Jake Norton is a climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.